Shiva-Durga Temple of Amethy

Towering over the Manikarnika Ghat, there is a Shiva-Durga temple of Raja of Amethy (Oudh; now Uttar Pradesh). Built in CE 1857 by the king of Amethy, Raja Lal Madhav Singh, this Shiva-Durga temple is an example of exquisite architectural and sculpturing rendering, with its five deep-red spires and gilded pinnacles. The temple is on a raised ground, ca 3.5m high from the nearby bank. Clambering up a side staircase, one passes under the Naubatkhana, where images of musicians are chanting praises of the goddess. On the right side of entrance is a fine bronze lion of Durga, and on the left Shiva’s bull. In the inner sanctum is the image of Mahisasuramardini. In the different portions of the temple there are images of the forms of Vishnu, like Varaha, Narasimha, Balarama, Krishna, and also are the goddess images of peacock riding, Vina carrying, and lion riding. Of course, nowhere on the wall there is any image of Shiva; Shiva lingam is only in the mini temples at the four corners. There are many images depicting the life incidences of Krishna. The temple is an example of the Panchayatana style, the centre as the core and four other attached temples at the four corners. The quiet and cleanliness inside are a relief from the bustle, sloppiness and dirt, and somewhat sordid atmosphere of more popular Banaras shrines.

Havell (1905: 169, 173) describes it (Fig. 7.4 and 7.5):

“It is built on a terrace overlooking the river, and is approached by one of those steep, stair cased streets, leading from the ghats up into the city, which suggest a town of southern Italy or Spain. Clambering up a side staircase, you pass under the Naubata Khana, where musicians are chanting praises of the goddess with strange but not unpleasing accompaniments. On the right side of the entrance is a fine bronze lion of Durga, and on the left Shiva’s bull. The quiet and cleanliness inside are a relief from the bustle, sloppiness, and dirt, and the somewhat sordid atmosphere of more popular Benares shrines. … Its cusped arches and graceful stone tracery betray the Saracenic influence, which is very prominent in modern Hindu art in northern India.”

The temple wall is decorated with row of winged figures (called putalis) under the main cornice, carved with all the sculpturing style of the local tradition, representing the Gandharvas, the heavenly musicians, and the Apsaras, the dancing girls of the heaven—sirens who fascinated gods and lured holy men from their devotions. On the walls, there is no image of Shiva, and there appear only two images of devis, i.e. Singhvahana Durga (sitting on lion) and Mayuravaha Sarasvati (sitting on peacock). There are several images depicting forms of Vishnu, including faces of Krishna and scene of Ocean-churning (‘Samudra Manthan’), and Vishnu resting on Sheshnaga’s bed (‘Sheshashayi’). There are several images depicting life stories of Krishna, like Kaliyamardana, Putanavadha, Govardhanadharana, Chiraharana, Makhanchori, Godohana, etc.